Worth its weight

The Age

Saturday October 31, 2009

Kate Robertson

The gold rush days are long gone but this cosmopolitan city still has its share of eureka moments, writes Kate Robertson. BALLARAT is a stunner. While the legacy of the gold rush days is evident in the grandeur of many of its public and private buildings, even newer developments appear to have been built with more than a nod to style. Apart from the built environment, residents are spoilt for gardens and open space, with wide boulevards and avenues and gorgeous botanical gardens.The 1854 rebellion by gold diggers at the Eureka Stockade is a defining moment in Australian history and celebrated at the Eureka Centre. This, and the re-created gold mining town of Sovereign Hill, are Ballarat's most significant tourism drawcards.Ballarat has the benefits of a city with the pace of a country town. It has a thriving arts community, a quality selection of restaurants and cafes and is within an hour's commute of Melbourne. Ballarat Central has a median house price of $265,000, compared with $480,000 in metropolitan Melbourne.TOP TEN SPOTS1 Ballarat Botanical Gardens. The gardens have been allowed to use recycled water to maintain the collection. It has a stunning stand of Californian redwoods and you can test your history knowledge by walking down the avenue lined with busts of Australia's prime ministers.2 Lake Wendouree precinct, Wendouree Parade. Although the water level is very low, spending time at the lake is a popular pastime. It is circled by a bike path. Cafes dot the perimeter and there is a great adventure playground. A boutique farmers' market runs on the second and fourth Saturday of the month.3 Ballarat Fine Art Gallery, 40 Lydiard Street North. This 19th-century gallery is the oldest and largest of any in regional Australia and has an impressive collection of early Australian works as well as contemporary art.4 The Regent Cinema, 49 Lydiard Street North. The historic multiplex cinema has eight theatres including two Gold Class and a Showcase cinema, which specialises in art house movies.5 Ballarat Aquatic Centre, Gillies Street. The popular aquatic centre near Lake Wendouree has a heated 25-metre indoor pool, toddler's pool, learn to swim pool, gym, group fitness, spa, steam room, child care, cafe and health consulting suites. The council also operates five outdoor pools in warmer months; the Eureka Pool in Stawell Street has two pools, a slide and mini golf.6 Lake Esmond, Larter Street. This former quarry has been turned into a lake and lovingly planted with native vegetation. It has a quiet charm with a walking track and picnic facilities.7 Cafe Lekker, 11 Doveton Street. If you're after a great lunch or all-day brekkie, you'll be rubbing shoulders with lots of in-the-know locals there. The cafe has a reputation for fresh, wholesome food with a great local wine list.8 Bike trails. Ballarat is spoilt for good bike rides with off-road tracks including the 54-kilometre Ballarat-Skipton Rail Trail and the 14-kilometre Yarrowee River Trail Network. There are also good loop rides to the nearby towns of Buninyong and Creswick.9 Wineries. Ballarat's cooler climate is great for wineries. The area is noted for its chardonnays, pinot noirs and sparkling wines and has almost 20 wineries within 25 kilometres of town.10 Live entertainment. Karova Lounge, on the corner of Field and Camp streets, provides a live music venue for home-grown and international acts. Ballarat Jazz Club meets monthly at various venues around town. Local theatre and touring productions can be seen at Her Majesty's Theatre and the smaller Courthouse Theatre.3350 HOME TRUTHSTRANSPORTTHERE is an extensive local bus service and taxis. Commuting to Melbourne is possible with frequent V/Line train services during the day. Train travel times vary from an hour and 40 minutes to just over an hour. V/Line coaches also connect Ballarat with other regional centres, such as Warrnambool. Alternatively, it is about an hour's drive to Melbourne via the Western Freeway.EDUCATIONBALLARAT has 12 state primary schools, two state secondary schools (one over three campuses), eight Catholic primary schools and three Catholic secondary schools. There are also two private secondary schools.SHOPPINGTREE-lined Sturt Street is the heart of Ballarat's shopping and al fresco dining, with a rich mix of shops and eateries. Central Bridge Mall houses the big stores, as does the undercover Stockland Wendouree shopping centre.

© 2009 The Age

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